Munich, December 17-19, 2011

Munich was not in our original plan.  It was always about the Christmas markets in Austria-Innsbruck, Salzburg and Vienna.  Then, in mid-August we had dinner with some friends and one of those friends is German.  "Munich" she insisted,  "the best Christmas markets are in Munich."   She was right...

Our adventure began on Friday, December 16th with a 7:30 PM flight from Knoxville to Dulles in Washington, DC. After a full day's work, I was excited about the trip but dreading the three flights ahead.  The fact that we would be awake until Munich bedtime on Saturday the 17th just added to my dread.  Luckily most of us grabbed a few hours sleep on the planes and, aside from a little turbulence over the Atlantic, our flights were smooth and on time.

We arrived in the Munich airport late Saturday afternoon, working our way through luggage, immigration and a 30 minute train ride to our hotel.  Daylight was fading when we boarded the train.  By the time we arrived at Marienplatz Station, darkness had blanketed the city.

Athought we had boarded the train above ground, our terminus was a multi-level underground station.  We were tired, a little confused and struggled to locate the exit.  Eventually we got our exhausted bodies, luggage and carry-ons up the escalator and out into the night air.  Finally we had arrived, Marienplatz, the main square in the heart of old town Munich.

John will tell you this was his WOW moment, the special time in any trip that grabs your heart and lingers long after other details have faded. As we stepped off the escalator into the square, we heard the sound of voices singing Christmas carols.  A gentle snow was falling and holidays lights lit up the darkness.  For just a moment, time froze and we were in a magical place, in the middle of the biggest Christmas market in Munich. 

We quickly realized  that we were in the path of hundreds, no thousands of people, walking, talking, laughing, drinking wine and shopping.  We grabbed our luggage and moved to the side of the market.  John pulled a map out of his pocket, located our hotel and we made our way to the beautiful, Platzl Hotel . 

The Christmas market on Marienplatz

Our rooms were ready so we checked in and settled in.  The Platzl Hotel is a 4-star luxury hotel and a perfect choice for us, comfortable and just steps away from Marienplatz, shops and restaurants.  Our rooms were elegant, the staff, very accommodating.

Platzl Hotel lobby

In Munich, darkness falls early this time of the year, around 4:30- 5:00ish. Deemed too early to go to bed (probably by me), our travel weary group headed back to the market for dinner and shopping. We strolled through the market, grabbing sausages and biscuits for dinner and looking at the wonderful Christmas crafts.

Christmas tree in front of the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) dominates Marienplatz.  The choir we heard on our first (and last) night was positioned on one of the balconies on Neues Rathaus.

Right: gingerbread stand. Above: sausage and mulled wine booth.

One and one half days is not enough to see the sights in any city so prior to our trip we selected a couple of  "must sees".  Any extra time would be spent shopping and exploring.  First on our list was the Neues Rathaus-Glockenspiel or carillion, which according to wikipedia, is a musical instrument typically housed in a belfry of a church or municipal building.

Torre and Daniel waiting for the Glockenspiel show to begin

Everyday at 11:00 AM and noon (more often in the summer tourist season), the Glockenspiel comes alive with 43 bells and 32 life size figures that re-enact two stories from the 16th century. The top half  tells the story of the marriage of  Duke Wilhelm V (founder of Hofbrauhaus) to Renata of Lorraine. Two life size knights on horseback joust at the end with the Bavarian knight knocking the Lothringen knight off his horse.

As the figures on the top half of the Glockenspiel go still, the bottom half comes alive. The bottom re-enacts the "coopers dance" which occurred during the great plague of  1517.  According to myth, coopers were said to have danced through the streets to bring vitality to the fearful.  The cooper figures twist and spin in place as they circle around on a ring. The total performance lasts 15 minutes and is definitely worth the top spot of any one's "must see" list.

The Munich Glockenspiel  in Marienplatz

After the performance, we walked across the square to St. Peter's Church. We arrived in the middle of services and waited quietly in the back of the nave until the benediction was given and  the congregation departed.  Incense was still heavy in the air when the photo below was snapped.

St. Peter's Church, the oldest parish church in Munich and presumably the originating point for the city

After exploring this remarkable church, we headed out a side door to the St Peter's Church tower to see the famed 360-degree view of Munich.  After a quick glance at the oh so narrow, 302 step climb to the top of the tower (no elevator available), Daniel, Torre and Lee sprinted ahead, while John and I brought up the rear (well, me really). Bebe headed back inside the church to get out of the lightly falling snow and enjoy the warmth.  

The view was worth the climb!

The Cathedral of Our Dear Lady (twin towers) is considered the symbol of Munich

Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) is to the right of The Cathedral of Our Dear Lady.  The Glockenspiel is visible about halfway up the main tower. We watched the 12:00 PM performance of the Glockenspiel from the tower balcony.

In front of the Neues Rathaus in the Marienplatz (main square) is one of the many Christmas markets in Munich.  The roofs of the market are usually green but it had been snowing on this day and the roofs were covered in snow.

John and me in the stairway of the St. Peter's Tower.  This is no place to get claustrophobic

Bebe, John, Torre, Daniel and Lee (far right) in a courtyard outside St. Peter's Church

We also visited The Cathedral of Our Dear Lady including a fascinating stop in the catacombs below the nave.  This cathedral is the seat of the Arch Diocese for Munich.

Hofbrauhaus

Among the things we most wanted to see in Munich was Hofbrauhaus.  As it turned out, Hofbrauhaus was located a block behind our hotel.  I am not sure exactly what I expected from a famous German beer house but I can tell you, the beautifully painted ceilings surprised and delighted me. 

Painted ceilings in Haufbrauhaus

John and me in Hofbrauhaus

Yes, even I enjoyed a beer at this famous Munich institution 

John and I knew we wouldn't get a lot of time to ourselves on this trip so late Sunday afternoon while everyone else was resting, we slipped out of the hotel alone and headed to Marienplatz to absorb some of magic of Christmas in Munich.  To our delight, a choir was singing from a balcony on Neues Rathaus.  The air was bitter cold, snow was falling lightly and we stood among the hundreds of  other holiday revelers, hand in hand, totally in the moment.

Choir singing from Neues Rathaus

For our final dinner in Munich, our group chose a traditional  Bavarian restaurant near to the hotel, Haxnbauer .  The house specialty is pork and veal knuckles, which are slow roasted over beech charcoal grill.  The result is a crispy, delicious and very rich meal.

Exterior of Haxnbauer

Everyone ordered a combination of veal and pork knuckles, except Torre, whose food choices include no meat.  Below is pictured a half  knuckle serving, a full serving would be just too much.  Along with knuckles, we had pretzels for bread, mashed potatoes and sauerkraut.  Yum, yum!

Bavarian style pork and veal knuckles

After dinner we drifted back to the market for the final time before leaving on a morning train to Salzburg. 

John, Bebe, Lee, Torre and Daniel

One last look at Marienplatz

Christmas Vacation 2011, the Travelers...

Several times since the New Year, I have been asked what my husband gave me for Christmas.  The short answer is Europe, Munich, Salzburg and Vienna. The long answer involves six days, six travelers, six suitcases, six carryons, six planes, four trains, a couple of taxis, and a big spirit of adventure.  Interested? 

The Travelers
Planning for this trip began in late Spring.  I was contemplating cancelling on a backpack to Glacier National Park with friends.  John had cancelled several months prior due to work issues and I just had no enthusiasm for going without him.  One evening, during the middle of my 100th or so, "I think I am going to cancel" conversation, John looked at me and said "I have an idea."  Suddenly,  Glacier was forgotten and our Christmas vacation was born.

As the trip took root, the cast of travelers began to crystallize.  John's sons Daniel and Lee were first to join our adventure.  They took their first international trip with us in 2008 when we took our second trip to Peru. Both are curious, adventurous and good natured which makes them great travel companions.

John's mother, Bebe (Johna) joined our group next. She took a little longer to make up her mind.  At 81, the long flights, anticipated cold, possibly snowy, icy weather and hours of walking gave her reason to pause.  With some encouragement from John and her friends, she decided to embrace the opportunity. Her only international trip was some forty years ago to Brazil with her late husband. 

And finally, our six traveler was Daniel's girlfriend, Tory. At 21, she was the youngest member of our group.  She had met us only a couple of times and we were quite impressed that she was willing to travel for a week people she did not know particularly well.  Much like Daniel, she is curious, adventurous and easy to be around. We think this is her second international trip, the first being to Central America, Guatemala, I think.