Late last night, we added Icelandic pony riding to our plans for the morning. I am not a horse person so I was apprehensive about the prospects. Nevertheless John, Kim and I met after breakfast and headed to the barn. Will chose to go jogging instead.
At the barn, three ponies had been selected to "match" our abilities. John climbed on a spirited white pony (he grew up with horses), Kim had a fine looking tan pony (she has had riding lessons) and me, I have no experience, my pony is an easy going 22 year old who, as it turns out, has a gas problem :-) So help me, the 5 year old in me couldn't help but laugh every time he let one rip!
With a guide in the lead, we are off on our ponies, bouncing in the direction John and I walked last night. I clutched the reigns, struggling with my fears and and discomfort. The ponies walked for some minutes as we adjusted to our new ride, then the guide asked if we were comfortable going faster. John and Kim were ready to go...so we did. Our ponies broke into a trot and then into the beautiful gait that is so characteristic to Icelandic ponies, the Tolt gait.
I learned that a slight change to my saddle position and pushing my feet forward will result in an almost smooth ride. I learned that my personal fear of stumbling on rough ground does not translate to my pony having the same problem. I also learned that I will never really be a horse person. All in all, it was a good experience but not something I will likely repeat in the near future!
We rode for a little over an hour. John and I wanted to burn our clothes when we climbed off the ponies. Instead we wrapped them up in plastic bags and wondered if they would make it home without smelling up everything we owned. Back in the car, we were off in the direction of our next stop, Pingvellir National Park and in search of a gas station.
I mentioned that food is one of our biggest expenses. I don't think I mentioned that our second biggest expense is gas. Gas is available mostly at N1 stores, which are comparable to our combo gas station, convenience and fast food stores. N1's are scattered across Iceland and accept debit cards, credit cards and krona...but they didn't take our US credit cards. We ended up buying Innkorts, prepaid gas cards available in 5.000 kr or 10.000 kr (roughly $50 or $100 US). We balked at this amount for our first gas purchase, but figured we could use it at other N1 stations. Ha, a half tank top off for our Kia Sorento cost $50. We never let the car get close to empty, I think we would have cried at a $100 fill-up.
On the other hand, the food at N1 stations is very affordable. We figured this gas stop would be our last chance to try the famous Icelandic hot dog so we did. Hello hot dog, why didn't we try you sooner! The dogs have lamb as an added ingredient and are lower in fat than their American counterpart. A string of sweet, brown mustard and maybe s spoonful of chopped onions are perfect toppings. For approximately $1 US, this is the best deal in the country!
Finally we are on the road to Pingvellir (Parliament plains) National Park, our big stop for the day. Pingvellir is the single most important historic site in Iceland, the place where Althing (Alping), the legislative body that represents all of Iceland, was held annually in an open-air assembly between 930 AD and 1798 AD. The plains and surrounding area were designated as a national park in 1928 and added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2004.
Like just about everything else in Iceland, a ton of history is attached to historic site. If you are interested in learning more, I have attached the official website.
http://www.thingvellir.is/english/history/
Pingvellir is also known for its volcanic activity. A boardwalk (above and below) is built in the Almannagja fault. Volcanic rocks rise on both sides.
Oxararfoss cascades though a crack in the impressive lava walls to the floor of the fault. The falls are part of the Oxara River, which winds through Pingvellir National Park.
A view of the plains and Oxara River from the Almannagja fault.
A flag of Iceland has been placed on the likely spot where the law-speaker of the Althing stood, facing the rocks, and recited the laws of the land.
A church has been located on this site since 930 AD. The current church dates back to the 1850's. A parsonage and graveyard are located next to the church.
Exploring Pingvellir occupied most of our afternoon so we had to hurry toward Reykjvavik to see the last two sites on our list, the Blue Lagoon and VikingWorld Museum.
With more than 300,000 international visitors annually, The Blue Lagoon is probably Iceland's best known attraction. Svartsengi, a nearby geothermal plant, pumps pressurized water from underground, runs it through steam turbines to generate electricity, then pipes the hot runoff into a Lagoon that has been carved into of a lava field. The water is very rich in silica and sulfur and said to have relaxing and medicinal properties. Average water temperature is 104 degrees F.
The parking lot for the Blue Lagoon was packed with cars and tourist buses. Unfortunately, we did not have time to partake in the waters but enjoyed the viewing deck and walking around.
Last stop before hotel check in, VikingWorld. The museum houses the Icelander, a replica of a Viking longship. In 2000, the ship made a historic journey from Norway to Iceland to Greenland to America to celebrate the millennium of Leif Erickson's journey to the New World.
Finally we arrived in Reykjavik and the lobby of the Hilton Nordica. Our seven day tour of Iceland was over. Good news, the hotel is sold out and we have been upgraded to the executive floor. Nice room, great bathroom and beautiful bay view from the 9th floor. We didn't have much time to enjoy the room, Raykjavik was waiting to be explored.
Will, Kim, John and I drove downtown together but decided to go our separate ways again for dinner. John and I had a fish and chips place in mind, Will and Kim had vegetarian food on their minds. Although we had to walk up and down the street several times to find Icelandic Fish and Chips, it was so worth the effort. The organic bistro serves this very traditional dish with a healthy twist, spelt and barley fish crust and roasted potatoes. We added a side salad with locally grown greens and left the bistro just full enough. Delicious!
We spent a little time walking the streets near the waterfront. Most stores were closed but restaurant and bars were busy!
On the drive home, we were lucky enough to stumble across this incredible Viking ship sculpture by Jon Gonnar Arnason. A combination of ocean, mountains and sunset provided an incredible photographic opportunity.
Sunset from our 9th floor window.
Forest trail
Small cove on the Tennessee River
John antagonizing a black racer snake. While not poisonous, the snake has a nasty bite.
Earlier this month BC (before cut), Lee is throwing water on a 4' black snake that just slithered under the bush beside our house.
Also BC, Lee (left), Daniel (yes, older brother has long hair too) and John taking a break during our house renovation.
Oh the band-aid on the side of John's nose...a result of younger days spent in the sun with too little sunscreen.
The great escape
Today will be spent washing clothes, shoes, suitcase, watch and anything else that traveled with us. Dust was present all overall Iceland and especially wicked on the gravel roads that took us through the Highlands. As a result, dust has permeated into the cracks and crevices of our bodies and belongings. Most abused are the clothes we wore horseback riding which are coated in a mixture of gray lava dust, horse hair and slobber. Burning maybe the only option here :-)
