Ring Road Day 4-Egilsstooum to Myvatn...

Today we head north. The day will end at Lake Myvatn (#4 on the map) where we will explore lava fields, geothermal caves and a large crater.

Today was the kind of day we are coming to expect in Iceland, cool and gray. We left the farmhouse in a rain shower but it is hard to be unhappy with the weather. Iceland is very dramatic in the rain. The landscape is surreal, a gravel desert of sorts.

One might comment on the lack of trees in Iceland, we certainly did on many occasions. Our research indicates that Iceland was "deforested" early in it's history, the wood used for charcoal, housing and fire. A few pockets of forest still exist, but heat is now geothermal, houses are of other material and we guess that charcoal must be imported.

Some 165 km from our starting point in Egilsstooum, we turned onto Highway 864. The road turned to gravel and we began 60 km of rough riding. We scanned the map for a place to stop and discovered a tiny village called Grimssstaoir, the only one for miles. A road sign, gravel drive and 4 buildings mark the town’s existence. In front of the second building is a hand lettered sign advertising coffee and cakes. We brought the car to a stop and headed to the front door. John pushed the front door open and paused, the building is clearly a private residence.

A young girl greeted us and we asked if this is the cafe. She smiled and pointed to the next room where 4 Brits sat chatting at a table, 1 of 2 tables in the room. We noticed that 3 bedrooms and the all important water closet satellite off the main room and realized we had stepped into the only B & B in this lonely stretch of Iceland. After trips to the WC, a bit of chit chat with the Brits and a take away cup of coffee, we are off again.

Our first stop is Dettifoss. Considered Iceland’s largest and Europe’s most powerful waterfall, the ground shakes as 212 tons of water per second thunder over the top. It was pouring rain as we pulled into the parking lot. Cars and large tour buses filled every available spot. Tourists in all styles of rain gear, moved to and from the trail to the falls.

We pulled on our rain jackets and hiked the short hike to the falls. Upstream is Selfoss but we stayed around Dettifoss, took photos and headed back to the car. Will and Kim hiked on.

John was hungry so we broke out the cheese and bread while sitting in the parking lot. The windows fogged with the moisture but we were cozy and dry in our little environment.

We continued on toward Jokulsa Canyon National Park. More incredible landscape!

Jokulsa Canyon National Park is considered the Grand Canyon of the North. The Jokulsa a Fjollum, one of Iceland's greatest rivers, formed the steep walled canyon which includes Dettifoss and Selfoss. The national park also encompasses an incredible forested canyon that was created by a massive flood of the Jokulsa a Fjollum some 8,000 to 10,000 years ago. The flood packed so much power, that rocks washed away creating this canyon in 2 hours. Jokulsa Canyon is considered one of Iceland's most beautiful natural wonders.

The canyon floor is filled with trees, lush foliage and purple and yellow flowers.

Kim, Will and John walking toward the canyon walls.

During the flood, the river split into 2 tributaries leaving behind a horse shoe shaped rock formation. Local legend has it that the formation is the hoof print of the god Ooinn's magical stallion, Sleipnir.

Next stop on our journey was Husavik, a fishing village of 2,278. Located on the Eastern Shore of Skjalfandi-bay, the town is known as the whale watching capital of Europe. Unfortunately, we have no time to take a whale tour.

We were greeted by Icelandic ponies on the outskirts of Husavik. The ponies are smaller than most US horses, have beautiful manes, sturdy legs and sweet faces (the description of a non-horse person).

Whale watching boats at the harbor at Husavik.

Our final stop was Skutustaoir on the banks of Lake Myvatn where we spent the night. The photo below was shot as we entered the lake area. Hverfjall crater is visible on the left (partially hidden by the clouds).

We had reservations in the Sel-Hotel on the north side of the island. The exterior of the building looked like a rundown seacoast hotel and I was a bit nervous about the interior.
Not to worry, the rooms were charming, the best on our trip so far.

Days of dusty driving had taken a toll on our car. No question the dust permeated everything we carried with us.

After a pleasant and relatively inexpensive dinner of hamburger and fries at a local restaurant (maybe $25-28 US/each), we ordered dessert and took it back to our room...chocolate cake, fresh whipped cream and milk! There is no down time on this trip. We go 15 or more hours a day and are beginning to feel the effects.

From the front of the hotel, we have an incredible view pseudo craters. This area is all about lava and geothermal activity.

Ring Road Day 3-Hornafjorouur to Egilsstooum...

This morning was the same routine as the past couple of days, breakfast at 8:00 AM, on the road by about 9:00 AM. Today we are headed up a gravel road behind our hotel. We heard the staff mention a glacier but we aren't sure how far it is. The view of our guesthouse from the first ridge is incredible. We can see the entire farm, Highway 1 and in the distance, the ocean.

We made a number of stops along the gravel road. Over each ridge, we found another amazing view...glacier lakes, lava fields and several waterfalls. The road was curvy, dusty with steep drops off the side.

Finally Skalafellksjokull glacier. Skalafellksjokll connects to the much larger Vatnajokull ice cap.

Our glacier exploration took all morning. We hiked a bit on the gravel patches and spent a lot of time just starring at the massive amount of ice and snow. Our drive back to Highway 1 went quickly, the roller coaster road no longer intimidated us.

Next stop was the village of Hofn (pronounced more like Hop). Hofn sits on the coast of the Hornafjordour fjord, has 1,633 residents and is one of the larger towns we have been through since Reyjkavik. We stopped at Kaffi Hornid (Cafe = Kaffi), the first restaurant we saw. As it turns out, this kaffi was well rated in Frommers.

The weather was cool (mid-50's), windy and overcast. We immediately fell into large bowls of lobster soup topped with fresh cream and large chunks of local lobster. We will not soon forget this meal!

After lingering over our soup and fresh bread, we drove through Hofn and then back to Highway 1 for an afternoon of exploring fjords.

After a few days of lava fields and glaciers, the fjords were incredible.

We briefly stopped in the village of Djupivogur, which is situated at the mouth of Berufjorour fjord, on the south coast. The town has 361 inhabitants and dates back to the 16th century. The town has it's roots trading but it's biggest industry is now fishing and fish processing.

More pictures of the fjords...

Andey Island

Vattarnes Lighthouse

Our day ended in East Iceland at Egilsstadir Guest House. Originally a family farm, the house became a guest house in 1889. It is located on the shores of Lake Logurinn where the sister of the Loch Ness monster is rumored to live.

The back of the guest house, which is actually the entrance. The front faces the lake.

The front of the guest house. We had dinner at the hotel restaurant, another great meal of Arctic Char.

Ring Road Day 2-Vik to Hornafjorouur area...

Day 2 and we were on the road by 9:00 AM. Breakfast is served late around these parts (8:00-10:00) or are the locals just more relaxed than a group of uptight Americans on holiday? The sky was overcast and the temperature hovering in the low 60's but the relentless wind kept the "feels like" temp in the 50's. We were told we missed the sun and heat last week. Most Icelanders are glad to see clouds and the chance of rain as their lush green fields were beginning to turn brown.

Our first stop was in Vik, a town of approximately 300 inhabitants and an official trading post since 1887. We note limited eating establishments and are happy we stayed at the farmhouse for dinner.

Vik is on the coast, "about 40 minutes from last night's lodging and on the other side of the Dyrholaey cliffs. This is the view "from the other side," along the coast of Vik.

Back on the highway, lava fields stretched for miles, the ancient Eldraun Lava to be exact, from an eruption in 1783-84.

An interesting, gray moss covered the lava. The whole scene looked like one might imagine the surface of the moon.

Lava rocks along a dry glacial river bed.

Systrastapi (The sisters crag) was up next. Are you keeping up with me on the names?! A convent was located in this area from 1186 until the Reformation in the 16th century.

Systrafoss (The sisters falls) is located among the lush fields and rocky cliffs of Systrastapi. There are many shapes and sizes of waterfalls in Iceland but no uninteresting waterfalls!

We spent a bit of time hiking around Dverghamrar (Dwarf crags). The unusual, hexagonal columns are found when lava has flowed into water and abruptly cooled. We really haven't climbed so high in the photo below although it looks like I am hanging on to John for dear life!

Nupsstour was one of my favorite stops on the trip. The chapel is from 1850 and the farmhouse, 1900. According to the history of this farm, travel across the sands and rivers was extremely difficult before bridges were installed. Horseback was the only feasible mode of travel. The most skilled and experienced travellers in the area were respectfully known as "water men" and the horses known as "water horses". This was the home of the last well known water man, Hannes Jonsson (1880-1968). He carried the post (mail) between Sioa and Hornafjorour. The buildings in the below picture were used for storage. Three peaked roofs is a common theme in old and new Icelandic architecture.

This is the chapel on the property. Many farms in Iceland, new and old, have small, private chapels. Hannes Jonsson is buried behind the chapel with several family members. Behind the chapel, you can get a glimpse of the mountain Lomagnupur, which once rose from the sea and now rises from the sands. The a large section of the cliff collapsed in 1789.

Off and on before the trip, we discussed getting married in Iceland. In retrospect, we wish we had. We decided this chapel would have made a memorable wedding site so we held a "mock" wedding. Below is our "wedding" photo from the chapel with Will acting as the minister. Not sure I will wear my hiking rain jacket for the real occasion.

A view of the magnicient Skeioararjokull glacier comes into view behind Nupsvotn, a wide and multi-streamed glacial river. It is obvious that this river rises considerably during glacier and snow melt. In the photo below, a narrow blue line indicates where the river is flowing on this day in mid-July.

The photo below is of a bridge built in 1996 over converging glacial rivers. In 1974, a bridge was built in this area, one of several bridges that finally completed the ring road. Considerable volcanic activity in the Vatnajokull glacier destroyed this bridge and damaged several others in the area. The second photo shows metal from the original bridge, it was washed downstream. The metal was left as a sculpture and a picnic table added to make it a "roadside" site.

We stopped and hiked to the glacier in Skaftafell National Park. Unfortunately, we did not have time to hike on the many trails and enjoy the lush scenery in the park. This was the first up close glacier experienced we had in Iceland. If we had more time, we could have hired a guide for a 2.5 hour hike on the ice. You can see a small figure in red walking below.

Our last major stop for the day was Jokulsarlon Lake. The lake is located at the foot of a glacier and is best know for it's floating icebergs. The icebergs bump around the lake until they are reduced in size. The burgs then make their way to the short, 1500 meter river, which flows into the sea. A bridge was built over the river in 1967 but the bridge is in danger due to encroachment from the sea.

Finally we arrived at our night's lodging, Smurlabjorg. This is the largest farmhouse we will stay in, holding 90 persons. It was filled mostly with a tour group. Though the accommodations are fine, there were too many people and we would suggest any small group bypass this farmhouse for other lodging. The first pic below is the lodge, the second is us looking out our bedroom windows.