(Note: this post was originally written on September 23, 7 days after our return)

China...intriguing history, welcoming people, crowded cities, incredible scenery. We are home and settling back into our everyday lives, changed (as we always are) by our experiences in a different culture. Early exhaustion and early waking are still part of our daily routine, a part we hope will be resolved soon.

We left the US on September 1 but our journey began in earnest when we landed in Beijing on September 2. We stayed in Beijing for 3 days and caught all the popular sites. Traveling on to Xi'an by overnight train, we explored the city for 2 days visiting the Terracotta Soldiers, the old city wall, the Moslem Quarter and many other sites.

After an evening flight to Guilin, the morning of day 5 found us floating down the Li River to Yangshuo, experiencing our first glimpses of the famous limestone mountains. We spent several days in Yangshuo bicycling in the countryside, hiking to Moon Hill, winding our way through the Silver Cave, exploring night markets, walking through rice paddies and eating at local eateries. Our time here was too short!

Late Sunday evening, after driving back to Guilin and flying to Chongqing, we were rushed aboard the President Cruise Ship #4 for a 2.5 day cruise on the Yangtze River. This was the most relaxing leg of the journey. John and I spent our first cruise day sitting on our balcony, watching the ever changing shore, reading and sleeping. We sailed through the Three Gorges on day 2 of the cruise and saw the massive concrete structure called the Three Gorges Dam in the morning of day 3.

With the cruise complete, we hopped in a van and for 4.5 hours we drove as the changing Chinese countryside flew past our windows. Our destination...Wuhan, for dinner, a night's sleep and a morning flight to Hong Kong. Hong Kong, our final stop before returning home! We were ready for this exciting, easy to navigate, very westernized city. That we could explore without a translator was a bonus.

Below are a few pictures from our time in Beijing and Xi'an.


Our first taste of Peking Duck

Peking Duck was the main course (for 3 of us) for our first dinner in Beijing. Peking Duck is usually served in 3 courses but we had mostly the 2nd course (duck meat), with some of the 1 st course (crispy skin). Peking duck is served with mu-shi flour pancakes (wafer thin), slivered green onions and plum sauce. The duck meat is dipped in plum sauce, placed on the pancake with several onion slivers and rolled in the pancake. Yummy!

The Forbidden City

Built between 1406-1420, the Forbidden City served as the residence for emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasty. The FC is divided into 2 major sections, the outer palace for business and inner residential buildings. Because we had a lot to see, we buzzed through the Forbidden City in a couple of hours, we could have spent days. Above, Chairman Mao glares out at Tiananmen Square from his perch on the outer walls at the Forbidden City.

Tiananmen Square (Gate of Heavenly Peace), nuff said.

The cast of the Beijing Opera

We spent an evening at the Beijing Opera during our stay in the city. It depends on whether you are me or Will, Kim and John as to whether the experience was enjoyed or not. Unfortunately, we were all exhausted and struggled to stay awake. The next morning our guide told us that China's youth do not like the opera and are very grateful for the tourists that keep this bit of tradition alive.

The fine art of drinking tea

On our last day in Beijing, we stopped at Mr. T's Teahouse for a delightful demonstration on how to make and drink Chinese tea. Note in the photo above, the men are holding the teacup with their middle finger on the foot of the cup to stabilize it, fourth and pinkie fingers curled under...very manly. The women, on the other hand, have their fourth and pinkie fingers thrust outward. I think we forgot these rules with our next cup of tea. And yes, we each brought home a little bit of Chinese tea to enjoy.

Summer Palace (Garden of Cultivating Peace)

Originally built in the 12 century, this 717-acre garden provided us with a relaxing afternoon stroll and dragon boat ride from shore to shore. Another place itching for further exploration but we just didn't have time.

The Great Wall in Simatai (also known as the "Wild Wall")

One of our most memorable experiences was our trip to the Simatai section of the Great Wall. This section seems to hang precariously on the Yanshan Mountains.

The Great Wall photographed through one of the watch towers

The Great Wall is truly great


Beijing train station

The Beijing train station is unlike anything I could have possibly imagined. Hundreds of people poured through a single front door and lined up at the security checkpoint to toss their luggage on a single conveyer belt. The luggage passed through an x-ray machine (in disorganized mass) and spilled out the other side. People (mostly Chinese) were crammed along the belt to claim their bags. I couldn't get close to my bag so I took a chance and literally jumped into the crowd, eventually surfacing with my bag. Whew! Jill, our guide, ushered us and our baggage to the correct platform and said goodbye. Soon we were off into the darkness alone, crammed into our little soft sleeper, looking forward to our next stop, Xi'an.

Exhausted tourists!

Do we look tired or what? Our train departed at 8:30 pm and we couldn't wait to go to sleep! The 4 of us shared a soft sleeper compartment (basically 4 bunk beds equipped with hard mattresses and silk comforters). John and I claimed the top bunks and Will and Kim the lower. Stowing our luggage above the compartment door was an interesting contortion act performed by John and Will. The act included lifting heavy luggage while hanging from bars around the door. Overnight train travel is an experience not to be forgotten!

Terracotta Soldiers

Our main reason for traveling to Xi'an (pronounced Ci'an), the Terracotta Soldiers. Surely the most spectacular site in China, these soldiers were buried some 2,200 years ago to protect the tomb of the first Qin emperor. The emperor left no record of the army's existence and remained a speculation until the sight was discovered in 1976 by a couple of farmers searching for water during a drought.

The soldiers of Vault Number One face east toward the emperor's tomb

Soldiers are lined up about 70 across, 150 deep and are separated by 10 walls and 11 corridors. The next 2 vaults are smaller but no less interesting. The soldiers on the wall in the above photo are in various stages restoration. Visible dark blotches indicate missing sections . Archaeologists will replicate only small pieces, large pieces not recovered are left unrepaired.

Xi'an City Wall (built from 1374-1378) "It's a long way down!"

We explored the great city wall around of Xi'an by bicycle. Unfortunately the south gate was under repair and we were pushing the closing time for the bicycle rental stand so we had only 40 minutes to ride and marvel at the construction. The red lanterns along the wall are magical when lit at night.

DeFachang's Dumpling Banquet

One of our favorite meals on the trip was the dumpling dinner at DeFachang in Xi'an. Fish, meat and vegetable dumplings were served along with a nut dumpling (brown dumpling).
Bell Tower (Zhong Lou)

The Bell Tower was built in the Ming dynasty in 1384 and moved to it's current location in the city center 200 years later (note the bell on the front left corner). Even though we did not have an opportunity to tour the tower, the building served as landmark for us when finding our location within the city.

Back in January when I signed up to lead the gourmet backpack on September 30, I couldn't have imagined a more perfect weekend. Low 70's during the day and 50's at night. Even the 2:30 am thunder-lightening-rain show did not dampen our spirits.

We hiked a short 45 minutes on Bald River Falls trail and settled on a ledge campsite located just above the river. Hidden from the often busy trail, the site was flat, large enough to accommodate 7 tents with room for a large kitchen area and fire ring.

Home for the night!

John had other obligations this weekend so I was on my own, carrying my equipment and cooking solo! While I had everything I needed and ate pretty well, I missed my camp chef!

Robin and her new MSR water filter


The beautiful Bald River

We did a backpack on this trail in February 2006. To view additional pictures of the river, trail and falls, go the the February 2006 posts.

Bob gathering firewood from downed trees and limbs

Barbara setting her "table"

As dinnertime drew near, everyone gathered in the kitchen area, some with elaborate preparations for dinner.

Ron lighting his stove

On Ron's menu, salmon

Barbara fixed a colorful penne pasta dish

Barbara's penne masterpiece had mini tomatoes, feta cheese and fresh basil leaves. Very delish! If you think this presentation is beautiful, you should have seen her Belgium pancakes this morning-pancakes, whipped cream and FRESH, sliced strawberries. Amazing what can be done in the backcountry.

Robin's fried falafels

Robin fried falafels for her gourmet meal. She served the falafels in pita bread with a homemade yogurt-fresh cucumber and mint sauce. Yum-yum!

Lemon and dill salmon

Bob and BJ fixed a complete meal with fresh salmon in lemon-dill sauce, steamed broccoli -cauliflower and mashed potatoes. Wait till you see her cheesecake (next photo)

Cheesecake with chocolate sauce

Unbelievable!! BJ hiked in with frozen milk and pulled together an amaretto cheesecake in a chocolate graham cracker crust with chocolate sauce and pecans on top. We watched BJ carefully as she prepared this dish, and checked on the effort several times. Everyone wanted a taste of this treat and she didn't disappoint us, nice large slices for everyone!

Will and Kim with a very fancy set-up

While BJ wins the prize for the best food effort, Will and Kim win the prize for most creative. Arriving in camp at dinnertime, they pulled out a "white table cloth" (towel), china plates, silver, candleholders and candles, linen napkins with napkin holders, a bud vase AND music (note the black recorder). We were all impressed!

Copperhead

Meanwhile, back at the tents, a copperhead had crawled under Robin's tent. How did I know this? After dinner I walked by the tent as it slithered out from the vestibule. It scared me and I scared it. Luckily it jumped on the front of her tent instead of on me! I screamed (as one might guess) and yelled (pleaded) for the guys to do something cause by this time, the copperhead had slithered near my tent. The guys fooled around with the snake and Ron finally encouraged it to go into the brush where we never saw it again. Gone but not forgotten! Even though everyone of us keeps our tents zipped tight (for just this reason) everyone was guilty of poking around in and under their tent before going to bed.

(To find the snake in the above photo, look at the left pole where the black turns into gold. Scan right across the photo and you can see the snake's head. The brown head is in the moss. His body looks like leaves).

A good, solid fire

Bob is not only a good wood gatherer but a great fire builder. We enjoyed relaxed conversation as we soaked in the warmth of the fire. (The two white lights at the top of the photos are from Bob's headlamp. The photo was taken without a flash so Bob is "lost" to the darkness. )

Banana Boat

The final dessert of the night was complements of Will's culinery skills. The banana and chocolate treat was wrapped in heavy duty aluminum foil and cooked in the hot coals. Looks bad, tastes great!

Makin' pancakes (Duane-left, Kim and Will)

We woke to a cloudy morning after an overnight rain. After a leisurely breakfast, we packed up and headed home. Another enjoying weekend in the backcountry!

Several days of dreary weather provided a dramatic backdrop for our annual drive across the Foothills Parkway, into Cosby, TN. Our destination? Carver's Apple Barn, of course.
Dramatic clouds hung low in the valley. We couldn't get enough so we stopped at every pull off along the Parkway.

We are a few weeks earlier than usual on our apple excursion so only the sassafras and dogwood trees have begun to change colors. Most vegetation looks lush and green from our recent rain.

This is the Smokies side of the Parkway. Lots of ahhhhs at this spot as we watched the clouds shift in the wind.

Home just a week from a few weeks in China, we are still a bit cloudy ourselves from colds and jetlag. This didn't dampen our excitement to near the Smokies and we can't wait to be out hiking and backpacking this fall. (Note to all those I promised China pictures on the blog this weekend, the first post will not be ready until Monday, sorry about that :-(

At Carver's Apple Barn, John is picking gourds to decorate his house for Halloween. We laughed about the funny shapes and colors of these gourds.

We also grabbed several jars of jam, a bag of tomatoes and several types of apples including a new one, at least to us, Ginger Gold. This apple is a little soft but has a sweet ginger bite followed by a tart after taste. Yum! Post Carver's we headed to Gatlinburg for a tureen of Brass Lantern's vegetable soup and a plate of corn bread. A perfect way to usher in fall.

This evening was a grand time for SC to host a late summer picnic. Temperatures were on the downside of unbearable and the humidity was somewhat lower than 100%. The usual group showed up with a combination of homemade and store bought goodies. By all accounts, everyone had a good time and will look forward to a repeat next year.


Always good food when this group gets together!

Lots of conversation

A nice evening out for us!

Shy Liza enjoyed the company too.

Appetites are satisfied and the sun is beginning to set at Holston River Park.

Barbara filling us in on her upcoming retirement plans. We are jealous!

Today I said goodbye to our family home. While I am quite pleased that we have completed the steps that were necessary to get us to this point, I must confess to a big lump in my throat as I locked the front door for the last time. In seventeen hours, someone else will reopen the front door and within our fine old house, a new story will unfold. A lot of good memories on Chesterfield Drive!

Family home for 49 years

Our last photograph in front of the living room fireplace.

Leslie saying goodbye to her room.

Peeking around the corner from my room to Leslie's room.

The work is done, all except the goodbye. John and Leslie on the front porch with the Goodwill haul.

The big oak tree was quite small when Daddy planted it in 1957. We are now dwarfed by its massive trunk. The dogwoods along the driveway were transplanted from the woods behind the house (circa 1958-59), before the woods turned into a massive subdivision.

Goodbye mighty oak!

I don't know exactly when the head appeared in the window. I gazed out of my office window one day and there it was. It startled me at first but I now look for it each day as I settle into my office routine.

Damien "ish", don't you think!

Located across the parking lot from our temporary office building, the head is visible in the third floor attic window of this slum run apartment building. One of our salesman told me the building was once a Civil War hospital. "Can't you just imagine the bodies laid out on the porches," he said. Hm-m-m-m-m....

Lots of shuffling in my house today as I attempt to make room for the furniture coming my way on Friday. After a morning of sorting through books, clothes and household items, Goodwill netted a nice bounty and I pocketed a few dollars from a stop at McKay's Used Books. Unfortunately the city dump will receive the pirates bounty from my hard efforts!

While culling through my collection of books, I discovered a long forgotten literary treasure about China. "Journey Into China" is a National Geographic Society publication that I purchased some 20+ years ago. Hidden between the 512 gold edged pages are beautiful photographs and tales about the regions and cultures that make up the whole. Unlike the China relevant history books and novels that have absorbed my attention recently, this one makes no attempt to tackle the oppressive political history. A real plus considering I have just finished two emotionally demanding books, "Wild Swans" (Jung Chang) and "Wild Grass" (Ian Johnson). With "The Unknown Story, M*A*O" (Jung Chang and John Halliday) up next on my reading list. I welcome the National Geographic distraction. Later this evening I will curl up on my sofa, turn the gilded pages, look at the pictures and dream travel dreams!

Today was a fine day for unpacking...overcast, humid, with a few periods of scattered showers. Daddy and I started just after 10:30 am and, with the exception of lunch and a quick visit to check on mother, we worked till 4:30 pm. Mission almost accomplished, mostly art supplies left to unpack. His apartment, with sunny yellow walls and shelves filled with books, is so warm and comfortable. Can't wait to get some of his artwork on the walls!